LFW SS20: Fashion opens doors to the public

Words by Frederick Lewis

Fashion editor Marilla Rizzi
Photographer Jessica Gianelli

In the midst of the Brexit chaos, London Fashion Week (LFW) 2019 brings a fresh reminder that London is in fact a European city. Designers, models and reporters flock to the city, lining its streets with a stimulating array of colour, cuts and eccentricities. We see everything from the provocative, sharply tailored outfits that veil the beautifully tanned skin of Italians to the outright flamboyant and ridiculous. Everyone is strutting the streets looking for their moment to be papped as part of the increasingly popular Fashion Week ‘street-style’ craze. Note: If you are worried that jump suits are out of fashion, then fear not. We saw plenty.

Models walk the streets and take the iconic route master home after a long day of exhausting shows, whilst photographers are carefully editing photographs for the articles that reporters are churning out. The fashion industry works tirelessly throughout the year for fashion week, so it is essential that it goes without a hitch.

This year, at LFW 2019 it is not just the fashion industry that is getting excited. In an effort to engender more interest in fashion, the British Fashion Council has opened its catwalks to the public, who can purchase tickets (at £135 each) for ALEXACHUNG, House of Holland and self-portrait. This move is typical of LFW, which strives to break norms and conventions and supports budding fashionistas debuts. 

A much anticipate show for us was Ashish Gupta’s 2020 spring summer ready-to-wear collection. Music is key in creating the mood of a catwalk show and Ashish did not ignore this, employing the use of gongs, wind chimes and bird calls to accentuate the spiritual reflection of his collection. Sticking to his true nature, Ashish created a dazzling catwalk filled with bright colours, clashing patterns and sparkles. Spiritual references were taken from a range of cultures. Tribal references were seen in the Incan patterns, range of colours, plaited hair and wooden beaded jewellery. The use of light, simple and innocent cuts reminded one of a 60’s Hippy. A myriad of small circular mirrors were present throughout the collection, almost as if to say “Hey, look at me. Now, look at yourself. Who are you?” To top it all off, a priestess like model carried a branch of burning incense down the catwalk. It is clear that Ashish is screaming for a conscious revolution. 

Ashish

Volume, frills and ruffles are reclaiming femininity.  Molly Goddard presented her headline grabbing catwalk, but we saw these trends throughout collections presented by Roberts Wood, I Love Four Seasons, Rocky Star and Malan Breton.

Roberts Wood SS 2020,

I Love Four Seasons

Bright, fluorescent colours light up the runway, with Mark Fast winning in terms of shear quantity with his collection that reminds us of an eighties party. We also see a vibrant green top from Roberta Einer, bright pink throughout Rocky Stars moody collection (a dark romance almost) and a glowing green dress by I Love Four Seasons which, along with a Picasso print dress, helps the extravagant and regal collection appeal to a more playful and younger audience. 

Mark Fast, Love Four Seasons, Roberta Einer